Dogwood Decadent Ale
Review Date 8/15/2003
Try?
Re-buy?
It wasn’t
intended for things to be this way. When I first heard that Atlanta’s
Dogwood Brewing Company would be doing a very special beer, a
world-class beer of great complexity and character, I was ecstatic. After
all, Dogwood is very highly regarded by beer aficionados. They make a
fantastically malty bock, a wonderfully hoppy IPA, a rich and roasty stout,
and more. Every year their Winter Brew is something different, always
something special.
So, I knew Decadent Ale would be a beer event not to be missed. And you know, I was right. Decadent Ale is a wonderfully complex and original brew. But as I sipped a pint, Dogwood President Crawford Moran’s words came to mind. He wanted to create an original beer, a rare and unique beer, one that is a tribute in and of itself to the art of brewing. Here, the ingredients would all work together, yet none would dominate. All would contribute something to the end product, which would harmoniously showcase them all.
I took another sip. Enjoyed the complex flavors. The sublime malt depth, the earthy, grassy hop notes. But as I thought more and more about Decadent Ale, I was reminded more of a titanic struggle between great and powerful forces than I was a symphony of flavors all working in concert. Not that the results are any less spectacular, mind you. And thus the battle of hops vs. malt.
The Combatants
On the malt team, we have an extremely talented lineup of ten different varieties from around the world. The esteemed Maris Otter from England is joined by some very distinguished German Weyermann malts: Munich, Caramunich I & II, Caramber, Cararoma, and Carafa. Rounding these out are chocolate wheat, flaked oats, and honey malt. Quite a lineup, to be sure.
The hops answer with a formidable ensemble of their own. Among them are fruity and floral Cascades and Centennials from the American Pacific Northwest; earthy British Goldings, and spicy, grassy German Hallertaus and Czech Saaz.
The Arena
By now, you probably have picked up on the theme of ten that is always present in Decadent Ale; even the name is a play on the number (deca means ten, after all). In keeping with this theme, and because Decadent Ale is a very rare beer with an extremely limited run, Decadent Ale is a draft-only offering for sale at ten exceptional Georgia beer bars, mostly in the Atlanta area. Any of the three Summit’s Wayside Tavern locations will be getting Decadent, but you can also get Decadent at the Wild Wings Café in Marietta. Their Athens location is pouring the beer too.
The Battle
Dogwood Decadent Ale pours to a murky brownish color with a light creamy head formation and a slightly sweet milk chocolate nose. As the battle begins, it’s the malt that strikes first as creamy, silky smooth chocolate flavors march across the tongue. They are joined by hints of caramel and molasses, but make no mistake: it is the deep, rich chocolate character that dominates as you first sip.
The Hops Strike Back
The initial sweetness is short-lived, as the hops begin to emerge. At first, they slowly show their presence as a balancing bitterness. The sweet chocolate becomes bitter sweet, and eventually a soft hint of earthy Goldings is detectable (though I think the Cascades and Centennials are drowned out here). The beer becomes permeated with hop bitterness, finally finishing with a pronounced and lingering grassy Saaz and Hallertau buzz that is as dominating as the malt is as you first sip.
It is striking how the flavors here interact: first the malt showing its stuff, then the two meld together in perfect harmony, finally the hops perform their solo act. It’s almost like two prima donnas on stage performing as a spectacular duo, but the ego of each demanding they shine separately as well. They work together well, but they’re battling it out at the same time.
The Winner
In truth, every glass of Dogwood Decadent Ale is a true battle between malt and hops. And the winner? Why the drinker, of course. If you are now or will be in the Atlanta or Athens area any time soon, do not miss this beer.
So, I knew Decadent Ale would be a beer event not to be missed. And you know, I was right. Decadent Ale is a wonderfully complex and original brew. But as I sipped a pint, Dogwood President Crawford Moran’s words came to mind. He wanted to create an original beer, a rare and unique beer, one that is a tribute in and of itself to the art of brewing. Here, the ingredients would all work together, yet none would dominate. All would contribute something to the end product, which would harmoniously showcase them all.
I took another sip. Enjoyed the complex flavors. The sublime malt depth, the earthy, grassy hop notes. But as I thought more and more about Decadent Ale, I was reminded more of a titanic struggle between great and powerful forces than I was a symphony of flavors all working in concert. Not that the results are any less spectacular, mind you. And thus the battle of hops vs. malt.
The Combatants
On the malt team, we have an extremely talented lineup of ten different varieties from around the world. The esteemed Maris Otter from England is joined by some very distinguished German Weyermann malts: Munich, Caramunich I & II, Caramber, Cararoma, and Carafa. Rounding these out are chocolate wheat, flaked oats, and honey malt. Quite a lineup, to be sure.
The hops answer with a formidable ensemble of their own. Among them are fruity and floral Cascades and Centennials from the American Pacific Northwest; earthy British Goldings, and spicy, grassy German Hallertaus and Czech Saaz.
The Arena
By now, you probably have picked up on the theme of ten that is always present in Decadent Ale; even the name is a play on the number (deca means ten, after all). In keeping with this theme, and because Decadent Ale is a very rare beer with an extremely limited run, Decadent Ale is a draft-only offering for sale at ten exceptional Georgia beer bars, mostly in the Atlanta area. Any of the three Summit’s Wayside Tavern locations will be getting Decadent, but you can also get Decadent at the Wild Wings Café in Marietta. Their Athens location is pouring the beer too.
The Battle
Dogwood Decadent Ale pours to a murky brownish color with a light creamy head formation and a slightly sweet milk chocolate nose. As the battle begins, it’s the malt that strikes first as creamy, silky smooth chocolate flavors march across the tongue. They are joined by hints of caramel and molasses, but make no mistake: it is the deep, rich chocolate character that dominates as you first sip.
The Hops Strike Back
The initial sweetness is short-lived, as the hops begin to emerge. At first, they slowly show their presence as a balancing bitterness. The sweet chocolate becomes bitter sweet, and eventually a soft hint of earthy Goldings is detectable (though I think the Cascades and Centennials are drowned out here). The beer becomes permeated with hop bitterness, finally finishing with a pronounced and lingering grassy Saaz and Hallertau buzz that is as dominating as the malt is as you first sip.
It is striking how the flavors here interact: first the malt showing its stuff, then the two meld together in perfect harmony, finally the hops perform their solo act. It’s almost like two prima donnas on stage performing as a spectacular duo, but the ego of each demanding they shine separately as well. They work together well, but they’re battling it out at the same time.
The Winner
In truth, every glass of Dogwood Decadent Ale is a true battle between malt and hops. And the winner? Why the drinker, of course. If you are now or will be in the Atlanta or Athens area any time soon, do not miss this beer.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft
