"Just had a great
time this afternoon at the
Coddington Brewpub in Newport, RI.
I was there for the Eastern
Brewer's Society meeting, with
guest speaker Horst Dornbusch of
Dornbusch Alt fame. We got there a
bit early, so I started out with a
crisp, refreshing crystal weizen,
a light-bodied malt and wheat
accented brew with a touch of
yeastiness in the finish. Perfect
for the hot day today was. Next
was a slightly nutty, dark malty
Nut Brown Ale with a piny hop
finish reminiscent of Brooklyn
Brown or
Pete's Wicked Ale. Very tasty. The
last Coddington beer I sampled
before the Dornbusch began flowing
was a malty, fruity, well balanced
pale ale which was an excellent
accompaniment to the French onion
soup and calamari
I ordered.
Before Herr Dornbusch began speaking, I got to chat with him for awhile about the state of the microbrewing industry in Massachusetts, New England, and the country as a whole. It was interesting comparing our experiences at two different levels of the beer business, and we discovered we have a mutual interest in writing about beer, though Herr Dornbusch is a bit more advanced than me, writing a book as opposed to my freelance writing for Yankee Brew News. As luck would have it, though, the latest issue of Yankee Brew News had arrived at Coddington, in which appears an article I wrote on Ringwood breweries, and it felt somewhat odd discussing the contributions of British brewers with a German-trained brewmaster.
In any event, Herr Dornbusch was a a bearer of bad and good news. When I asked him why the one-liter swingtops of his Alt and Gold had been so difficult to obtain lately, he explained that his Massachusetts distributor had dropped the brand. Furthermore, he described a bleak brewing scene in New England, where no one is making a profit and many breweries are overloaded with debt. He suspects this is the case with many craft brewers across the land, and expects a large shakeout to come.
The good news is
that Dornbusch will be opening a
brewpub next year, so Dornbusch
Alt is not gone forever. He will
also be offering a few new beers,
including a schwarzbier. I'll just
have to drive a bit further to get
my Dornbusch fix. The other bit of
good news is that Dornbusch has
authored a book on the history of
German brewing that will be out in
October. If it is even half as
good as the excellent lecture he
gave today on the same subject, it
will be worth going out of your
way looking for.
Famed Austrian beer writer Conrad Seidel once described Dornbusch Alt to me as "more authentic than current German versions". Dornbusch is a friendly fellow, too, and a wonderful drinking companion. I had a grand time sharing beers with him at Coddington Brewpub in Middletown, Rhode Island, several years ago just before his book was released. We talked about German beer, the decoction versus infusion debate, and the state of brewing in New England. Sadly, Dornbusch Alt is no more, though Horst remains a force to be reckoned with in the brewing industry.
Glad I tried it? T
Would I rebuy it??
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled, Canned
(D)=Draft