It’s the top of the ninth inning in the Beer Lover’s
Playoffs, and the Mendocino Hopheads are down 1 to nothing. Red Tail Ale and
Peregrine Golden have already been to the plate, and they both struck out.
The crowd is tense. This has been a championship franchise in days gone by
but of late has been having problems, big problems, with some of its star
players. All eyes turn to a glass of Eye of the Hawk Select as it steps up
to the plate. Can this beer keep Mendocino in the game? A hush falls on the
crowd, and the pitcher pours a brew straight to home plate…Eye of the Hawk
swings the bottle…and slams a home run right out of the park. This beer is a
definite hit!
OK, please excuse my somewhat imaginative metaphor, but those of you who
regularly read my beer reviews might know that of late I have been less than
impressed with the beers coming from Mendocino Brewing in Ukiah, California.
Red Tail Ale, a classic brew that seems a shadow of its former self, and
Peregrine Golden Ale, a macro masquerading as a micro, both have
disappointed me of late. That’s a sad commentary considering that Mendocino
opened California’s first brewpub and the nation’s second overall, the
Hopland Brewery, back in 1983.
Fortunately, Mendocino is totally redeemed with Eye of the Hawk Select, a
rich and complex ale that is not to be missed. The company was for all
intents and purposes acquired by a large Indian brewing concern in 1997 and
production was split between a California facility and one in New York
State. The beers have seemed to suffer for that, though Eye of the Hawk is a
notable exception.
Eye of the Hawk has been brewed since 1984 and is bottle conditioned,
meaning that yeast is added to the bottle. This results in further
fermentation and improves shelf life for the beer. In many cases, it will
lead to improvement of character as the beer ages. The beer has won multiple
awards at the Great American Beer Festival. My sample was brewed at the
California location and was obtained through the Micro Beer Club.
Eye of the Hawk Select pours to a cloudy amber color with light head
formation and a yeasty, malty nose. The palate is big and delicious with a
firm malt chewiness, rich bread-like yeast character, and hints of toffee
and caramel. The finish is very warming with an 8 percent alcohol content by
volume and nicely balanced with an assertive hop bitterness. This is a
fantastic strong ale, rich and complex, flavorful and delicious. In many
ways it is reminiscent of a Belgian strong ale. It should be savored before
or after a meal, as its richness is better appreciated in my view when drunk
without food.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft