In past reviews, I have mentioned beer pioneers Jim Koch and Fritz Maytag.
Equally deserving of credit in the promotion of craft beer in America is
Pete Slosberg, the Pete of Pete’s Wicked Ale fame. Slosberg began as a homebrewer but saw a broader market
emerging for the kind of beer he liked. Like Koch, Slosberg decided not to
build a brewery, but instead contracted out production of his brew to the
August Schell Brewing Company of New Ulm, Minnesota. Schell had a reputation
of brewing fine German-style beers, and thus Slosberg entrusted them with
his American Brown ale, somewhat similar to a German alt in its robust malt
character and hoppiness, except for the use
of domestic cascade hops and lack of cold lagering. The rest was history.
It's hard to believe that Pete's Wicked Ale has been around for fifteen
years, but it's true. I may be dating myself but I still recall my very
first bottle of Pete’s back in the late eighties, a 22-ounce one brought
back from California by a friend. Since it's introduction in 1986, Pete's
has become one of America's top craft beer brands. Their line of beers has
increased substantially in that time, but Pete's Wicked Ale, a classic
American brown ale, has always been my favorite.
Some people insist that Pete's Wicked Ale has declined a bit in quality over
the years. I have noticed that the bottled version has seemed a bit less
robust at times. The draft product, however, has always seemed to be a bit
more flavorful. A few years ago I did a taste test comparison of bottled
versus keg Wicked Ale:
A recent keg sampling found the beer roasty and loaded with chocolate
maltiness and a spicy, slightly phenolic hop finish. In contrast, a bottle
I've just poured is definitely lighter on both malt and hops. Deep brown in
color with a small but persistent head and a slightly malty nose, the palate
here is much less hardy than in its draught counterpart. A bit of chocolate
is detectable, as is a touch of molasses which melds with a balancing hop
level in the finish. Still a very drinkable brew in the bottle, but an
excellent one in the keg.
About a year ago I took notes on the bottled stuff again. Here’s what I
wrote:
Pete’s Wicked ale pours to an amber-brown color with a very light head
formation and a sweet malty nose. When I popped the cap off, I got a quick
whiff of Cascade hops. These are used for aromatics here, with Brewer’s Gold
for bittering. The palate features a big chewy-chocolatey caramel character,
strongly reminiscent of a Storck Riesen candy. I get some bitterness in the
finish, but what I don’t get is the Cascade aromatics I so loved in this
beer in the past. Even with dry hopping, those Cascade notes just aren’t
here (try a Brooklyn Brown, another fine American-style brown ale, and
you’ll understand what I’m going on about).
Pete’s has changed over the years, but it’s still an excellent brew. Enjoy
it with a fudge nut brownie, as I’m doing right now.
Let’s come back to the present, and take a look at Pete’s one more time.
Pete’s, of course, no longer belongs to Pete, since Slosberg sold the
company back in 1998 to Gambrinus Company, importers of Corona and owners of
Spoezel Brewing (Shiner Bock) and Bridgeport Brewing. With the sale Pete
lost his creative input. Recently, the company revamped their line and
re-packaged all of their brands. Pete’s Wicked Ale is back in longneck
bottles with a spiffy new label. Crown caps have replaced twist-offs. That’s
about the only good news I have about the beer, however. It has been
reformulated and dumbed-down if you will.
The classic American brown ale is no longer an American brown, much more
closely resembling a soft, malty English brown ale. Chocolate malt has been
removed from the grain bill, and the beer is no longer dry-hopped with
Cascades. In addition, the amount of Brewer’s Gold used has decreased as
well, resulting in a much less interesting beer in my opinion. It’s thinner
in body, much less aromatic, and sweeter in the finish.
I’m very disappointed about these changes. Perhaps they’ll result in higher
sales for Pete’s, but not from me.
Update:
September 20, 2008: Just
to be fair, I picked up a six-pack of Pete's Wicked Ale to give it another
shot. This is still a fairly decent malty brown ale. But it lacks the hoppy "oomph" that once made it so desirable and
respectable. Still not a beer I would go out of my way for, and there are
plenty more for about the same price I'd give a nod to instead (Brooklyn
Brown Ale comes most immediately to mind). Note: My rating is for the
original Pete's Wicked Ale, not the Gambrinus brewed version after 1998.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled, Canned
(D)=Draft