Pete's Wicked Ale

Review Date 8/27/2001   Last Updated 9/20/2008 By John Staradumsky

In past reviews, I have mentioned beer pioneers Jim Koch and Fritz Maytag. Equally deserving of credit in the promotion of craft beer in America is Pete Slosberg, the Pete of Pete’s Wicked Ale fame. Slosberg began as a homebrewer but saw a broader market emerging for the kind of beer he liked. Like Koch, Slosberg decided not to build a brewery, but instead contracted out production of his brew to the August Schell Brewing Company of New Ulm, Minnesota. Schell had a reputation of brewing fine German-style beers, and thus Slosberg entrusted them with his American Brown ale, somewhat similar to a German alt in its robust malt character and hoppiness, except for the use of domestic cascade hops and lack of cold lagering. The rest was history.

It's hard to believe that Pete's Wicked Ale has been around for fifteen years, but it's true. I may be dating myself but I still recall my very first bottle of Pete’s back in the late eighties, a 22-ounce one brought back from California by a friend. Since it's introduction in 1986, Pete's has become one of America's top craft beer brands. Their line of beers has increased substantially in that time, but Pete's Wicked Ale, a classic American brown ale, has always been my favorite.

Some people insist that Pete's Wicked Ale has declined a bit in quality over the years. I have noticed that the bottled version has seemed a bit less robust at times. The draft product, however, has always seemed to be a bit more flavorful. A few years ago I did a taste test comparison of bottled versus keg Wicked Ale:

A recent keg sampling found the beer roasty and loaded with chocolate maltiness and a spicy, slightly phenolic hop finish. In contrast, a bottle I've just poured is definitely lighter on both malt and hops. Deep brown in color with a small but persistent head and a slightly malty nose, the palate here is much less hardy than in its draught counterpart. A bit of chocolate is detectable, as is a touch of molasses which melds with a balancing hop level in the finish. Still a very drinkable brew in the bottle, but an excellent one in the keg.

About a year ago I took notes on the bottled stuff again. Here’s what I wrote:

Pete’s Wicked ale pours to an amber-brown color with a very light head formation and a sweet malty nose. When I popped the cap off, I got a quick whiff of Cascade hops. These are used for aromatics here, with Brewer’s Gold for bittering. The palate features a big chewy-chocolatey caramel character, strongly reminiscent of a Storck Riesen candy. I get some bitterness in the finish, but what I don’t get is the Cascade aromatics I so loved in this beer in the past. Even with dry hopping, those Cascade notes just aren’t here (try a Brooklyn Brown, another fine American-style brown ale, and you’ll understand what I’m going on about).

Pete’s has changed over the years, but it’s still an excellent brew. Enjoy it with a fudge nut brownie, as I’m doing right now.


Let’s come back to the present, and take a look at Pete’s one more time. Pete’s, of course, no longer belongs to Pete, since Slosberg sold the company back in 1998 to Gambrinus Company, importers of Corona and owners of Spoezel Brewing (Shiner Bock) and Bridgeport Brewing. With the sale Pete lost his creative input. Recently, the company revamped their line and re-packaged all of their brands. Pete’s Wicked Ale is back in longneck bottles with a spiffy new label. Crown caps have replaced twist-offs. That’s about the only good news I have about the beer, however. It has been reformulated and dumbed-down if you will.

The classic American brown ale is no longer an American brown, much more closely resembling a soft, malty English brown ale. Chocolate malt has been removed from the grain bill, and the beer is no longer dry-hopped with Cascades. In addition, the amount of Brewer’s Gold used has decreased as well, resulting in a much less interesting beer in my opinion. It’s thinner in body, much less aromatic, and sweeter in the finish.

I’m very disappointed about these changes. Perhaps they’ll result in higher sales for Pete’s, but not from me.


Update: September 20, 2008:  Just to be fair, I picked up a six-pack of Pete's Wicked Ale to give it another shot. This is still a fairly decent malty brown ale. But it lacks the hoppy "oomph" that once made it so desirable and respectable. Still not a beer I would go out of my way for, and there are plenty more for about the same price I'd give a nod to instead (Brooklyn Brown Ale comes most immediately to mind). Note: My rating is for the original Pete's Wicked Ale, not the Gambrinus brewed version after 1998.

And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.

*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.

(B)=Bottled, Canned

(D)=Draft

 

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