OK, folks, I'm going to go off on a rant here. You see, I bought this bottle of Shipyard Pugsley Signature Series Barley Wine Style Ale last year and thought it a bargain at about eight bucks for a 22-ounce bomber bottle. I like to sit on such beers for a time, you see, and age them a bit before I drink them, so I'm just getting to my bottle now.

Before decanting, however, I hopped on over to ratebeer.com to see what they had to say about it. Many folks seemed to dislike the beer, and it got a low rating. I was worried. Until, of course, I took a sip, and was delighted by this complex malty ale.

The problem, you see, is that we Americans tend to be a bit too ethnocentric at times. That extends to beer geeks, and we think if it doesn't conform to our mold, there's something wrong. So, I suspect American beer geeks are comparing this beer to an over-the-top American barleywine, like Bigfoot or Old Crustacean.

Sorry guys, but that's not what this one is supposed to be. Shipyard says their barleywine is "brewed in the true English tradition", and indeed what the Brits call barleywine is often very different from what we Americans do. American barleywines, for example, often top 10or 11 percent alcohol by volume, if not more. Shipyard's version is stronger than most English examples at 8.5%, but still restrained by Americans standards.

The beer is named for Shipyard brewer Alan Pugsley, who came to the United States from his native England to brew beer. Shipyard uses the unique Ringwood yeast strain that makes for an authentically British-tasting beer. They craft their barleywine with six malts: (Pale Ale, Crystal, Caramunich, Wheat, Chocolate, and Roasted Barley per the label). The beer is hopped with Summit, Challenger, and Fuggles hops.

Shipyard Pugsley Signature Series Barley Wine Style Ale pours to a deep chestnut color with a thick creamy tan head formation and a very appetizing nose of sherry, raisin and chocolate. A thick layer of tan-colored Brussels lace clings to the sides of my glass as the liquid descends.

Taking a sip, my tongue is bathed in a silky smooth, luxuriantly  textured liquid that screams dark fruit and toasted malt. Raisin, plum, molasses, chocolate, spice cake, brown sugar, and candied fruit all come to the fore most immediately. A hint of vanilla emerges as well, with just a hint of the buttery notes that Ringwood beers are famous for.

Indeed, I'm reminded of a Christmas Mince Pie by this very complex ale. Or perhaps a good strong Yorkshire ale, like Old Peculiar, albeit with a higher alcohol content. In the finish, there's a surprisingly generous dose of hops, as well, grassy, earthy, English hops with a surprisingly intense long lingering bitterness, much more than I get from most English-style ales.

This is a delightful sipping beer that makes a splendid nightcap before bed. It's not as big as American barleywines, but it's not supposed to be. When judged according to the brewer's intent, something brewing pioneer Bert Grant always championed, Shipyard Pugsley Signature Series Barley Wine Style Ale rates highly in my book. And don't be afraid to sock away a few extra bottles, as this one certainly ages gracefully.

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