You know, the Smuttynose Big Beer series of brews is like a box of chocolates. You never now what you're gonna get. OK, maybe you do to a degree, because they're invariably solid, well-crafted brews. But Smuttynose tweaks them ever so slightly from year to year, and they never seem to be exactly the same. Though they are very close, of course.

The Smuttynose Baltic Porter I'm sipping right now is a classic example. It's almost a year old, being the 2009 edition of the brew, and weighs in at 8.7% alcohol by volume, a tad higher than the 2007 brew. That came in at 8.1%; who knows where the 2010 variation will land? Smuttynose doesn't always repeat beers in this series from year to year, but they are doing just that with the Baltic porter, which tells you how good the beer is.

My tasting notes here reflect a year of aging on this beer, and of course Baltic porters are definitely excellent candidates for laying down. Unlike traditional porters (which are ales), Baltic porters are bottom-fermented lagers. They're big in body, character, and of course alcohol, and the originals shipped from England to Russia through the Baltic states. Undoubtedly, these beers would have had some age on them before they got to the lucky end drinker.

Smuttynose Baltic Porter pours to a jet black color with a thick, creamy tan head formation and an enticing chocolate and licorice nose. Taking a sip, I'm in pure Baltic heaven-the body is absolutely viscous, thick and rich and clinging to the insides of my mouth as the liquid passes over. The chocolate is big, rich, and bold; deep, dark and delicious by any definition. It's reminiscent of powdery bittersweet cocoa and permeates the brew.

The licorice is equally potent, and drinking this beer recalls fond childhood memories of robust Allsorts licorice candies. Some raisin is evident, too, perhaps mixed with a little fruity plum. In the finish, the malt imparts a roasty bitterness that really balances nicely, much more so than the hops do. There's a gentle alcohol warmth present, too.

Despite all this, the beer is remarkably smooth and drinkable. It's a lager as all true Baltic Porters are. A masterpiece, pure and simple, and a very good deal at about six bucks for a 22-ounce bomber bottle. And if you missed the 2009 brew, don't fret. The 2010 batch of Smuttynose Baltic Porter will be released in November. Best to buy a few bottles, some for now, and some for later.



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