Alan D. Eames has been called the Indiana Jones of beer, and for good reason. He has dedicated his life to traveling the world in search of rare and obscure beers. Beer enthusiasts may have heard of one his more celebrated ventures, Flag Porter, a beer made with yeast from bottles of beer that had sat beneath the waves in a sunken ship for more than 100 years.

Eames’ wife, Anne Latchis, is one of the founders of Amazon Imports, the Vermont company that brings Xingu Black Beer into the United States. Truth be told, Xingu was actually the couple’s own concoction, specially brewed for export from Brazil to America; later, distribution was expanded to Canada and Europe.

I took these notes on 8/31/1999:

Brewed and bottled by Cervejaria Independente, Toledo, PR. Brazil. Imported by Amazon, Inc. Brattleboro Vermont, home of legendary beer adventurer Alan D. Eames (whose wife Anne Latchis is behind this beer as I recall).

I have enjoyed this beer in 22oz. bottles in the past, this is the first time I've seen them in 12oz. bottles, though in singles only. Beer pours to a deep black color with a creamy tan head and appetizing grassy-chicory nose. Palate is slightly coffeeish, buttery and astringent with subtle licorice and a slightly sour finish. A very nice beer to be sure.

Xingu (pronounced shin-goo) is supposedly based on a dark form of native beer called chicha. Chicha was usually made from corn that was masticated by native women brewers, who then spat the ground grain into a vessel full of water. Wild yeasts in the air would spontaneously ferment the resulting mash, and voila, you had beer. Eames implies dark versions of this brew were made with roasted corn. From Amazon’s website:

The search began in Brazil where Eames insisted the best examples of black beer could be found. The earliest Western account of black beer brewed by the natives of the Amazon region dates to 1557. Many Amazon Indian tribes placed great spiritual significance on black beer as a beverage used in religious and social ceremonies. This primitive brewing was done with dark roasted corn or manioc root, fermentation being initiated by wild yeast.

That Brazil is home to the best examples of black beer is debatable. Many would argue that Germany’s Schwarzbiers hold claim to that title, and in fact Xingu has more in common with them than it does a native Brazilian black beer. That’s because Xingu is a bottom-fermented, Reinheitsgebot compliant lager made with barley, hops, yeast, water, and nothing else.

Ironically, most beers are looked down upon by beer geeks when they include corn in the grain bill. Xingu, however, would have been more authentic and interesting if it actually included some. An attempt to reproduce a black chicha would be unique and welcome, indeed.

That said, Xingu is still a delicious beer deserving of much praise in its own right. A bit sweeter than a traditional Schwarzbier, it is rich in body and very, very drinkable. Xingu is sold in six-packs of 12-ounce bottles as well as in 22-ounce bombers.

Xingu Black Beer pours to a jet black color with a thick creamy tan head and a sweet molasses nose. The palate is very, very lightly roasty with hints of molasses, caramel, and raisin. Despite its dark color, this is not at all an overbearing beer. A touch of chocolate appears towards the finish, along with a hint of licorice. A hint of hops are detectable, but overall the beer finishes sweet.

This isn’t really a Black Beer of the Amazon, but it is a very nice brew all the same. Definitely worth trying.

Update 10/29/2017: Here's a long overdue visit with an old friend. Xingu Black Beer is still brewed in Brazil, now imported by Heineken. It's a delightful beer hinting at coffee and chocolate and lightly buttery. A little pricey at $11.99 a six-pack, but nice to see it has changed little over the years and is good as it ever was.

And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.

*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.

(B)=Bottled

(D)=Draft

 

 

 

 

 

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